4 December – The Taxman, the water board and the daladala

Today we visited the former maritime and slave trade centre of Mikindani. As we left the restaurant, a large party from the regional water authority were arriving for a smart reception, for which the staff had been preparing all afternoon. I was dying to ask the man in a suit, similar to the one I am having made, why we get water so infrequently and whether the details of the irregular timetable could be shared with others, particularly me. I didn’t want to intrude, so instead hurried down to the beach to take a daladala back to Mtwara.

The daladala is the most common form of public transport in Tanzania. Unlike Kenya, Tanzania still regulates fares on these minibuses and they remain extremely good value. They are very profitable for the private operators because they cram as many people as possible into the bus. This afternoon, we had about twenty-five people on board a mini-bus designed to carry twelve. This included three women with babies wrapped to their bodies in kangas. The smells, sights and sounds of so many different people in such a small space made for a fascinating journey. I hope the young boy squashed into my midriff felt the same.

The journey, or rather the economics of the daladala business among other things, became the major topic of conversation with Philbert. We had joined him for a quiet beer during the Everton match this evening and our discussion ranged from taxation, a belief in the strength of local communities and why school performance might be improved if responsibilities are devolved to the lowest competent level. We were joined this evening by Mr Faustin, the Director of Public Works for Mtwara Municipality. Mr Faustin’s responsibilities include water, highways, housing, sewage and street lighting. There is no street lighting in Mtwara, so we concentrated on water.

It is government policy for every household to have a water supply within 400m. Faustin explained that whilst this is a policy objective, they are well short of meeting that target, resources being so scarce. Caroline had noticed that the taps for standpipes often have small wooden boxes with padlocks. I asked Faustin why. To my surprise he was not aware of this and so we asked Philbert. Philbert explained that it is quite common, that in fact he has one, and that it is to protect your supply from being used by others. All water, whether it is fed from a standpipe in the street or in one’s house, is metered. I asked Philbert how much he paid and whether water was readily available,

“ Oh yes. I pay monthly and the amount covers all my needs.”

“So you don’t have water rationing?”

“Oh yes, the water is rationed, but that it is not due to Mr Faustin’s department. That is the responsibility of the water authority.”

My mind returned to lunch and the large party of men sitting down to a heavy meal and I regretted not asking the man in the suit about his irregular timetable.